The Shitthaung Temple is one of the most renowned temples in Mrauk U. It was established in 1535 by King Min Bar Gyi, the most powerful Rakhine king of Mrauk U Period . It is so named because it housed 8,4000 images of the Buddha to be enlightened in the future.
King Min Bar Gyi ascended the Mrauk U palace in 1532. Three years afterwards, the Portuguese soldiers who were based on Sundvipa island at the mouth of the Ganges river invaded Rakhine territory with a great navy. But the Rakhine army defeated them and drove them away out of their domain. In commemoration of that victory , King Min Bar Gyi built this temple. So it was also known as ‘ Yan Aung Zeya Temple’.
Having sought advice from Sayadaw Vens. Aggacideya and Aggamuni, Hermit U Mra Wah ,wise Minister Vimala and his son Maha Panna Kyaw, the king had the Phoe Khaung hill one kilometer north of the palace bulldozed and levelled and the temple built on that ground by 1,000 masons within one year.
The Shitthaung Temple is the archaeological treasure house which ranks top in Mrauk U. Its roof is surmounted with a large bell-shaped stupa surrounded by 26 satellite stupas. The outer wall is interspersed with twenty-eight niches in which are life-size images of the seated Buddha placed back to back. All life-size reliefs at this temple represent King Min Bar Gyi as the earthly counterpart of Sakka, King of gods who resides in Tavatimsa on the Summit of Mount Meru. The six tiers of bas reliefs at this temple may correspond to the six planes of existence. The lowest level of the reliefs depicts animals of all kinds, humans, etc enjoying life in the world of desire. The central level depicts the former lives of the Gotama Buddha from the jataka tales that give the moral lessons to all visitors. The Lokapalas Devas are depicted at the fifth level. The uppermost level represents Brahmas or gods. At the four corners, the reliefs are interspersed by life-size statues which represent King Min Bar Gyi.
At intervals around the plinths are figures of the earth goddness Vasundhare wringing her hair to bear witness to the Danaparami (Perfection of donation) fulfilled by the Budhisatta. Byala, a mythical creature, which is the national emblem of the Rakhine, is found inside of the Shit-thaung Temple. The Rakhines regard it as a symbol bringing good luck and auspiciousness to them.
The Shit-thaung temple festival is one of the most popular festivals in Rakhine. The festival usually falls on May 23 and last five days. Rakhine traditional long- boat races, Rakhine Kyin Pwes( the Rakhine traditional wrestling contests), Rakhine traditional dances and Buddha Pujaniya ceremony are held during the festival. During the festive days, the pilgrims from far and near flock to this festival. So the whole town is alive and agog with festive mood from the sun-rise to sun-set.
During the Buddhapujaniya ceremony, beautiful Rakhine damsels perform the Rakhine traditional dance in praise of the attributes of Triple Gem. These dances show great devotion of the Rakhines to Buddhism from the ancient times.
In the long-boat race, 10 boats have to participate, each group comprising 15 strong, muscular long-boat rowers. Many spectators on both banks of the creek applaud the contesting rowers. This race show the unity and outstanding rowing skill of the Rakhines. In Kyin pwes, the Kyin wrestlers who come from Tawphyanchaung area in Ponnagyun Township and Yanbye Township are famous and mostly win many trophies. This race shows quickness, mindfulness, stamina and art of the wrestling . Rakhine nationals take much pride in this sport as a national identity and they desire to preserve Kyin wrestling as an ancient Rakhine sport .
To conclude, the Shitthaung Temple is the show-case of the Buddhist art and architecture. So it reflects the high architectural standard of ancient Rakhines and their profound devotion to Buddhism. Like this temple, other pagodas and temples in Mrauk U are embellished with excellent works of art and architecture. So it is thought by the writer that all the temples and pagodas in Mrauk U including the Shitthaung Temple should be kept in situ.
On a recent public holiday, the weather was pleasantly cool. The sky was soft and clear blue. I decided to take a short drive from my home in Nay Pyi Taw. I went to pay homage to the Maravijaya Buddha image. There is something deeply calming about starting a day with a visit to a sacred place. This particular morning turned out to be one of the most memorable ones.I drove my car through the quiet, tree lined roads of the capital. The morning sun cast a golden glow over everything. The air was fresh. The peaceful atmosphere was a welcome break from my usual office routine. Within about fifteen minutes, I reached the sprawling Buddha Garden in Dekkhinathiri Township. There, the magnificent Maravijaya Buddha image stands.The Meaning of “Maravijaya”The name “Maravijaya” (မာရဝိဇယ) comes from the Pali language. “Mara” (မာရ်) means the evil one or spiritual defilements. “Vi” (ဝိ) means special or supreme. “Jaya” (ဇယ) means victory (အောင်ခြင်း). Together, it means “Victory over the Five Maras” (မာရ်ငါးပါးကို အောင်ခြင်း). The Five Maras are: desire (တဏှာ), death (မရဏ), defilements (ကိလေသာ), fear (ဘေး), and the five aggregates (ခန္ဓာငါးပါး). People believe that paying homage to this image brings protection from all dangers and bestows success and prosperity upon devotees.Arriving at the Site – A Scene of DevotionAs I approached the main gateway, I was struck by the number of pilgrims. People of all ages, from young children to elderly grandparents, had come from different parts of the country. Some were in family groups, others wore monastic robes, and many walked slowly with their hands in prayer. The atmosphere was one of quiet reverence and shared faith.The Grandeur of the Image and the Epic Journey of the MarbleI walked through the main gateway. The moment I stepped inside, I saw the great Buddha image for the first time. My breath stopped for a second. A deep feeling of reverence filled my heart. I could not move my eyes away. I immediately started walking straight toward the image. My feet moved on their own. I forgot everything around me. As I got closer, I stood at the foot of the lotus throne (ကြာပလ္လင်တော်). I slowly looked up. A deep sense of awe washed over me. The Maravijaya Buddha image is not just any statue. It is the world’s tallest marble carved seated Buddha image. The image itself rises 63 feet. The throne adds another 18 feet. The total height is 81 feet — roughly the height of an eight storey building. The statue weighs 1,782 tonnes. The throne weighs 3,510 tonnes. Together, they tip the scales at 5,292 tonnes. To put that into perspective, this sacred image weighs even more than a space shuttle. I stood there and could not help but marvel. Such an enormous weight was calculated with great precision. The image was set perfectly upright — a truly remarkable engineering achievement. I had also read about the journey of the marble in an article. The massive raw blocks were quarried from Sagyin Hill, near Mandalay. Because they were so enormous, the image had to be cut into four sections and the throne into five sections. The transport began by water. The first stage went from Sagyin Hill to Semikhon Port in Myingyan Township. That trip took 105 days, from 11 June 2020 to 23 September 2020. The second stage was by land. The blocks moved from Semikhon Port to the Buddha Garden site in Nay Pyi Taw. That took only five days — from 25 January 2021 to 29 January 2021. Thousands of tons of marble were handled. Every section was delivered successfully. It is an astonishing logistical achievement that truly deserves to be recorded in history. Standing there, looking up at the finished image, I felt both awe and gratitude.I noticed something thoughtful. For the elderly, the unwell, or those who have difficulty walking, there is a short, roofed flight escalator. It helps them ascend to the main terrace. I watched an old grandfather use it slowly. This ensures that everyone can pay their respects without hardship. I felt grateful for this kindness.The Buddha Garden – A Complete Sacred LandscapeAfter paying homage to the main image, I started exploring the Buddha Garden (ဗုဒ္ဓဥယျာဉ်တော်). The area around the main image is not just an open field. It has been carefully designed as a sacred landscape. I decided to visit each place one by one.First, I walked to the Sudhamma Rest Houses (သုဓမ္မာဇရပ်). These beautifully built rest houses use traditional teak pillars. They have Myanmar style carvings. I sat down for a moment. The shade was cool. Pilgrims rested around me. The ancient architectural spirit is still alive here.Next, I went to Mucalinda Lake (မုစလိန္ဒအိုင်). This lake was built exactly according to historical accounts. Senior monks gave their advice on it. The lake represents the story of the Mucalinda serpent king. He protected the Buddha from a storm. I stood by the water. It was calm and clear. The serene environment made my mind peaceful.Then, I visited the Nagaron Shrine (နင်္ဂါးရုံဘုရား). This shrine is based on Buddhist scriptures. It shows the great Naga king wrapping his coils seven times around the Buddha. He spread his hood as a canopy. He protected the Enlightened One from wind and rain. The stone carving here is exceptionally fine. I stood there for a long time. It was moving to behold.After that, I walked to the Stone Inscription Halls (ကျောက်စာရုံစေတီများ). This is one of the most extraordinary features of the garden. There are 1,444 stone slabs in total. 1,440 slabs contain the Tipitaka (ပိဋကတ်သုံးပုံ) from the Sixth Buddhist Council. Four additional slabs hold the commemorative chronicle of the site. Each slab measures three feet nine inches by six feet three inches. The thickness is 7.2 inches. I touched one slab gently. What makes this truly special is that the texts are inscribed not only in Pali but also in Romanized script. A council of five State Ovadacariya Sayadaws (နိုင်ငံတော်ဩဝါဒစရိယ ဆရာတော်ကြီး ၅ ပါး) supervised the work. They made the Dhamma accessible to the wider world. This was inspired by the UNESCO recognized stone inscription library at the Maha Loka Marazein Buddha in Mandalay. Then I saw a charming sight. Three young women dressed in traditional Myanmar costumes were standing with the stone inscription hall as their background. They were taking photos with their mobile phones and smiling together. When I saw that scene, I could not help but smile.Next, I entered the Ordination Hall (သိမ်တော်ကြီး / သာသနာ့ဗိမာန်တော်). It is modelled after the Great Cave Ordination Hall at Kaba Aye in Yangon. That was where the Sixth Buddhist Council was held. This majestic building can accommodate 900 monks and 1,200 lay devotees. That is a total of 2,100 people. Inside, I saw a large image of the Venerable Ananda (နောင်တော်ကြီးရုပ်ပွားတော်). I learned something interesting. Before carving the final statue, craftsmen first made a 9 foot prototype. They sought guidance from the monks. That is a mark of deep respect for tradition.After the buildings, I strolled through the gardens. The garden is a delight throughout the year. I saw Kyee trees (ကျည်းပင်). There is a sacred Bodhi tree (ဗောဓိညောင်ပင်) brought from India. I also saw Sal trees (အင်ကြင်းပင်) from Lumbini — the Buddha’s birthplace. There are groves of Lint Lun bamboo (လင်းလွန်းတောအုပ်). Nearly 1,000 Kaday (ကံ့ကော်) ironwood trees stand tall. A natural stream has been straightened. A bridge was built in the style of the Mandalay Yadanabon era’s “Mingala Bridge” (မင်္ဂလာတံတား). Walking along the paths, I felt coolness from the white marble. The shade of the trees refreshed my mind. It was a true mental refreshment.A Prayer for Peace and GratitudeAs the morning sun rose higher, I found a quiet spot near the front of the main image – right in the direction the Buddha faces (south to north). The stone inscription halls stand directly in front of the Buddha’s face, symbolizing that the Word of the Dhamma is always under the Buddha’s watchful eye. This arrangement filled my heart with joy. I then offered my sincere thanks. I am deeply grateful to the government of the Republic of the Union of Myanmar for having this magnificent Buddha image built in Nay Pyi Taw, allowing all citizens and visitors to come and worship freely. Following the very meaning of the name “Maravijaya” — Victory over all enemies and obstacles — I prayed:May our entire country be free from all dangers and conflicts. May peace and calmness prevail throughout the land. May the nation prosper in economy and well being. May the Sasana shine brightly for a long time.Conclusion – A Journey to RememberDriving back home that late morning, I felt a deep sense of inner peace. The Maravijaya Buddha image is more than a tourist attraction or a religious monument. It is a symbol of Myanmar’s faith, engineering brilliance, architectural heritage, and literary preservation all in one place. If you ever have the chance to visit Nay Pyi Taw, do not miss the opportunity to see this glorious image. Whether you are a devout Buddhist or simply a lover of art and history, the Maravijaya Buddha Garden will leave you humbled, inspired, and refreshed.gnlm
Myanmar is a land of festivals. The festivals are of different types: religious, cultural, social, etc. Even famous pagodas have their own festivals. Being a famous pagoda, Meilamu Pagoda also has its own festival that is usually held in January every year. Since I live near the Kaba Aye Pagoda, the Meilamu Pagoda is only a 30-minute walk from my home.Five years ago, on a cool wintery January evening, I visited this famous festival. Entering the precincts through the western archway gate, I was greeted by the sight of the glittering Meilamu Pagoda shining brilliantly under the floodlights. It rises to the height of 98 feet with its base like a mangrove bud. So, it looked so magnificent in my eyes. This magical sight reminded me of the legend of this pagoda, saying thus: The pagoda was built by King Okkalapa in honour of his mother, Queen Melahmu, who was the adopted daughter of a hermit who discovered an enormous mangrove bud. When it bloomed, a beautiful baby girl appeared inside. Because she came from a mangrove flower, she was named Melahmu, and the hermit raised her as his daughter. When she came of age, she married Sakka, who was in the guise of a handsome lad, and bore King Okkalapa in due course …Near the Meilamu Pagoda, two majestic Buddha statues stood: one reclining and another seated in the Dhammacakka mudra. Small prayer halls with tiered roofs surrounded the area, shaded by lush green trees. As I walked around the pagoda compound, I saw some pilgrims dressing in their fine clothes, some saying prayers, some telling their rosary beads, and some donating golden robes to the pagoda that was under renovation. Many stalls sold souvenirs, traditional bags, and handcrafted items. Craftsmen and astrologers also set up booths to offer their services.One unique attraction was a crocodile-shaped building used as a Buddha museum. In the middle of a small lake, near it stands a shrine dedicated to the brass image of the Vennarable Uppagutta. From the bridge leading to this shrine, visitors enjoyed feeding fish and tortoises. Because it was the festive season, pilgrims filled every nook and corner. Feeling hungry, I went to a food stall near the winding creek. Pilgrims were chatting cheerfully, and a couple nearby was enjoying fritters. After ordering my food, I relaxed and admired the natural beauty of the mangrove-lined creek. I espied the glittering pagodas on another bank in North Dagon. A few sampans glided gently along the creek, while old wooden houses lined the southern bank. To the north, the Ngamoeyeik Bridge connected North Okkalapa and North Dagon, and its traffic was streaming. The creek itself eventually flows into the great Yangon River.As I gazed at the water, I remembered the old legend of Ngamoeyeik, the crocodile who was said to have lived in this creek. According to folklore, the crocodile served as a matchmaker for Prince Min Nanda and Princess Shin Mwe Hlon, whose love ended tragically. Young lovers still share this melancholy tale and think about it. It also filled me with a sense of quiet sadness.After spending about half an hour there, I walked out of the precincts to participate in the festive activities along Sudhamma Road. At that time, the darkness was descending gradually from the sky. The festive area became packed with the pwe-goers. The traffic was too heavy and nearly came to a standstill. I crossed the road easily and continued walking along the festive area.The Meilamu Pagoda festival lasts for ten days each year. My visit happened on a super Sunday, which meant the entire area – from Ward (2) Market, North Okkalapa to the Kyaukyedwin Bridge – was teeming with festival-goers. People jostled through the crowds, some dressed warmly while others wore colourful clothing. Since offices, schools, universities, some shops, and clinics were closed on weekends, people were free from their responsibilities. Therefore, they could relax and enjoy the festive nights.I reached the top of Kittar Road near Phonegyi Lan bus-stand. There were many entertainments such as merry-go-rounds, Pirate Boat, an artificial playground only for the children, Ferris wheel, etc., at this junction. I saw some children playing merrily on the artificial playground “Happy World ” while their parents stood looking carefully at their movements until time was up. Fun railway services for children added extra enjoyment in the festive area. Some thrill-seekers were riding the Pirate Boat and the merry-go-round. The soundboxes produced Hit Hop songs and jaunty music adaptable to the entertainment. Some were shrieking, riding merry-go-rounds, Ferris wheels. In the cool wintry breeze, it was creepy even to watch their rides. Standing among the lights, music and joyful crowds, I enjoyed the pwe (festival).I noticed some people selling Thanaka, dried fish, mats, Ngapi, etc. Since their products were available at an affordable price, there were a lot of customers near their stalls. Pork skewers, chicken skewers, etc., were available at some stalls. Most eaters were young people. It was customary for them to wear fashionable clothes and jean pants on the chill, wintry nights.Residents set up temporary shelters that were built of bamboo poles and tarpaulin sheets. Only then will they be able to protect themselves from the heat of the sun in broad daylight. It is learnt that within ten festive days, some sellers stopped their sales at Ward (2) Market temporarily. They moved and earned their windfalls selling snacks and items, and got the handsome profits. Traditional dramatic shows, known as Zat pwes, entertained large audiences. Among them, the popular “Moe Gyo Ngat Ngae” show drew excited spectators.Gold fish breeding glass boxes were arrayed in the colorful flourescent lights. Various species of goldfish were swimming to and fro. Their beauty and grace caught the attention of the visitors, especially the children.Laughter and music filled the air. Young people played dart games to win teddy bears, often kept as gifts for Valentine’s Day. Footwear shops, commodities shops and small stands selling cigarettes, betel quids, and candies lined the road. Food stalls offered classic Myanmar dishes such as mohinga and Rakhine monti. There were many shops selling clothes at affordable prices, temporary bookstalls, and food stalls selling fried or well-cooked pork and steak, fried chicken, chips, fritters, biryani, pickled tea leaves, and other snacks. The festival grounds are also filled with stalls promoting pharmaceutical products and stalls selling pots, pans, bowls, spoons, pillows, and other household items. Visitors eagerly joined and took part in the festival. To the delight of the crowd, the marketeers handed out free samples of coffee, tea, and medicine, much to the delight of the crowd.Some stalls sell household goods used by housewives. Cups with different shapes and colors and plastic items are available. There were also tattoo shops, which mostly attracted young people. Many of them got tattoos at these shops. Some youths liked tattoos, so they got their bodies tattooed. It is believed that these tattoos protected them from harm and made them look stronger or more attractive. Even some girls had waterproof tattoos on their arms, hands, and other parts of their bodies.In one stall, colourful teddy bears of all sizes were on display. Many young people drew lots to test their luck. I decided to try as well, paying three thousand kyats. To my delight, I won a pretty teddy bear.The festival area of this pagoda was always crowded with visitors who had a high standard of living. Most of the pwe-goers were model girls, youths, ladies and parents. Some were local people and came with their friends. Some children came with their parents and relatives. Lovers also visited together. Young people or adults often communicate with each other using mobile phones. They came to the festival in their own cars and wore fashionable clothes. Thus, it can be said that the festival is modern and matches the current trends.Gourd fritters shops were popular among young people. Besides gourd fritters, Mohinga, salads, and fried bean curds were also available. Young people had fritters with sauce and lettuce, etc. Free green tea was also served. They listened to the music coming from the shops and sat and watched the girls passing by. They truly enjoyed themselves.One or two large, clever snakes could also be seen. Although they were boa constrictors, they did not harm the visitors. The snake-charmers entertained the crowd with these snakes, and people enjoyed watching them. People also donated money for the snakes’ food as much as they could. It is believed that donating to the snakes brings good luck, since the snakes are living beings too. Some performers, including snake charmers and magicians, entertained visitors, hoping to receive donations.Enjoyed gourd fritters, pork salad, noodles, and vermicelli. After leaving the precinct, they walk around the shops in the festive area. People also took photographs and uploaded them onto Facebook. I saw some Myanmar puppets sold at the shops.I saw people playing cane-ball on a stage illuminated by the lights. Crowds gathered to watch. Announcers explained the situation of each competition through loudspeakers. Many hawkers are prepared to sell their products to the festival-goers. Magical shows, animal exhibits, and performances by clever monkeys were visible. It can be said that the Buddha Pujaniya Festival was crowded.The festival was held for 10 days. Some sellers who came from the countryside did not return home immediately after the festival ended. They kept staying for about three days selling their products, unlike the town sellers who left earlier. They sold items such as thanakha bark, traditional snacks, and traditional toys.The bathrooms and toilets were located in a separate part of the festival. Most sellers stayed in their temporary shelters throughout the festival and did not return home during these days. They tried to earn money by selling their goods. The bathrooms and toilets were open 24 hours a day, making them convenient. Because of these facilities, sellers could stay clean and healthy during the festival. If they got dirty from sweat and dust, they could use the bathroom for 500 kyats.Volunteer associations also came to the festival area. They organized groups and set up water pots near the entrances. They donated drinking water to pilgrims and festival-goers. It is said that these donors came to the festival without expecting anything in return.Indian vendors sold snacks such as samosas and baya kyaw. By means of reading Tarot cards, some fortune-tellers foretold the customers’ futures.Some stalls sold lucky draws, and the customers waited to see the results, checking against their numbers. If they were lucky, they would win money, phones, TVs, washing machines, and other prizes.There were also stalls with fun games. The sellers used the names of famous football clubs such as Liverpool, Manchester United, and Arsenal to attract customers. They played dice that had the names and symbols of these football clubs. If customers correctly guessed the name of the club that appeared on the dice, they won prizes from the sellers.In conclusion, my visit to the Meilamu Pagoda Festival was a memorable and enjoyable experience. The festival showed the religious devotion, culture, and joyful spirit of the people. I enjoyed the majestic pagoda, the lively crowd, the food, games and entertainment. People from all walks of life came together to relax and have fun. This festival truly reflects the tradition and modern life of Myanmar. I will always remember this visit and hope to visit the festival again in the future.gnlm
Our car was scudding along the Yangon-Bago highway. Tall trees lining the road were swirling behind. I often espied vast stubble fields dotted with shabby huts or clusters of green trees. I looked over the fields as the villages were sheltered by leafy trees. The air was fresh from the cold of the night. As it was just about 8 am, the sun was at the toddy’s palm height, shedding its orange-coloured rays over the world. Soon, we came to Hlegu. It was a prosperous town with tea shops, restaurants, offices, monasteries, meditation centres, schools, the Hlegu Education Degree College, etc. Its economy was bolstered by husbandry, agriculture and good transportation. At the toll-gate, I observed a long queue of trucks fully loaded with various commodities produced from different parts of the country, which were heading for Yangon. As the traffic was heavy, our car had to hug the road. Then we passed through Inntakaw. It was also a busy town with monasteries, the Inntakaw Buddhist College, meditation centres, tea-shops, restaurants and factories. When we were out of Inntakaw, we saw the Manle Tawya Monastery ensconced amongst shady big trees and the Shwepyi Resort on the left of the road and some meditation centres and large stretches of forests on the right. We now and then found pagoda-crowned hills standing well back from the road. At about 9:30 am, our car got to the Tenth-mile Hill at the entrance to Bago.I noticed that many monasteries, pagodas, meditation centres and other Buddhist institutes clustered around the Tenth-mile Hill. These Buddhist buildings, old and new, were tucked away amongst flowering shrub-berries, groves of bamboo plants and shady trees in the wide precincts. My mind was filled with serenity and peace by this quiet neighbourhood, and I was put under the spell of the beautiful landscape shining in the glow of the rising sun.At the same time, I was reminded of the Buddha’s brief stop at this place on the way to Thaton (Sudhammavati) in the year 111 Maha Era mentioned in the Mon chronicles. The chronicles say that when the Buddha reached there, he saw a female Hamsa (Brahminy duck) with a male Hamsa on her back standing on a small island and that the Buddha prophesied his teachings (Sasana) would flourish at the city which would emerge after his demise at the place where the couple of Hamsas perched. I think Bago was, therefore, the earliest place the Buddha had visited in Myanmar and named ‘Hamsavati (City of Brahminy Ducks)’ after this traditional narrative.To my knowledge, apart from Hamsavati, Bago bears two other names: Ussa and Pegu. U Mya, a former Director of the Archaeological Department, assumed that the word’ Ussa’ was corrupted from ‘ Orissa’, a region in the north-eastern part of India. During the Colonial Period, Bago was called ‘Pegu’ by the British. Only after 1988, the name’ Pegu’ was changed to ‘Bago’. Historically, the First Hamsavati was founded by Prince Samala and Prince Vimala in about the 6th century AD and the Second Hamsavati by King Banya U in the 14th century AD. During the Toungoo Period, it was a thriving seaport town, a commercial hub busy with local and European merchants. During the Colonial Period, it was a district-level town, the seat of a Deputy Commissioner.A few minutes after passing the Tenth-mile Hill, we came to the entrance to Bago. I saw Bago University hidden among green, leafy trees on a vast estate on the right side of the road. It is known that it was upgraded from a degree college to a university in 2011 and that its campus covers over 700 acres. A few minutes afterwards, I, on the left, found the archway to the Kyaikpwon Buddha image, one of the oldest Buddha images in Bago. It is said that this four-faced, seated Buddha image goes back to the 7th century AD and was built by King Migadippa and repaired by King Dhammazedi in the 15th century AD, that it is 90 feet in height and that the images of the Kakusanda Buddha, the Konagamana Buddha, the Kassapa Buddha and the Gotama Buddha are erected back-to-back with their faces towards the four cardinal points.Our bus proceeded along the road. At 10 am, we arrived at the foot of the Shwemawdaw Pagoda Hill. We ascended the hill by the flight of stairs leading to the pagoda platform. The Shwemawdaw Pagoda, the highest of all the pagodas in Myanmar, was glittering in the sun. We walked clockwise around the pagoda. The pagoda platform was packed with many pilgrims, some paying homage to the pagoda, some offering flowers and lighted candles to Buddha images and some telling rosary beads. At a certain place on the plinth of the pagoda, a model of the broken spire of the pagoda was found. It is said that it was made to commemorate the toppling down of the spire of the Shwemawdaw Pagoda due to a great earthquake, which occurred in 1970. The pagoda platform was surrounded by rest-houses, monastic buildings, spirit-shrines and pavilions. Legend has it that Shwemawdaw Pagoda was built with the enshrinement of the two hair relics of the Buddha brought from Majjhimadesa by the two merchant brothers named’ Mahasavaka’ and ‘ Culasavaka’, who were the natives of Zaungtu town.At 10:30 am, we left the pagoda for the Shwethalyaung Reclining Buddha Image. After a 15-minute drive, we got to the Shwethalyaung Reclining Buddha Image. It was situated in a wide precinct on the Shwethalyaung Pagoda Road in Mazin Ward. It was housed in a large pavilion surmounted by a tiered roof. Behind the pavilion were rows of stalls selling foods, fruits, flowers, local products, Myanmar traditional handicrafts, etc. There were full of pilgrims not only in the pavilion housing the reclining Buddha image but also in the stalls. We bought some flowers and donated them to the reclining Buddha image and paid homage to it. This image measures 180 feet in length and 52 feet in height. It is said that it was built by King Migadippange in the 10th century AD and was renovated by King Tissa, King Banyar U, King Rajadhirit, Queen Shin Saw Bu and King Bayintnaung. As we became hungry, we ate lunch greedily at a stall behind the shrine hall.At about noon, we departed from the Shwethalyaung Reclining Buddha Image. We called in on the Kalyani Ordination Hall located in vast precincts sheltered by large perennial trees on the same road. Some feet to the east of the ordination hall was found a shed which housed the Kalyani Stone Inscriptions, which were very important in the history of Buddhism of Myanmar. We found ten stone slabs on which the religious contributions of King Dhammazedi were engraved in Pali and Mon. It is learnt that when King Dhammazedi succeeded to the throne of Hamsavati in 1472, he was aware that Buddhism was declining in Lower Myanmar, that he, therefore, dispatched some Mon monks to Sri Lanka and had them reordained on the Kalyani river there, that when they arrived back in Myanmar, King Dhammazedi endeavoured to purify and promote the declining teachings of the Buddha with the assistance of the monks who had been reordained in Sri Lanka. Then, King Dhammazedi had all his religious activities recorded on ten stone slabs in 1476, which were later known as the Kalyani Stone Inscriptions. To my relief, these valuable epigraphic documents were kept in good custody by the Department of Archaeology and National Museum. But I think responsible personnel should try to bring more public attention to this priceless cultural heritage.Although we wanted to visit some more historical buildings and sites like the Kambojasadi Palace built by King Bayintnaung in 1553, the Hamsa Hill Pagoda, which was built to mark the perching of Hamsas (Brahminy ducks), the Mahazedi, a merit of King Bayintnaung, etc., we felt so tired due to the intense heat of the mid-day summery sun. So, we gave up our cherished desire of ransacking this ancient town for more ancient sites and buildings connected with legends and history and left Bago at 2 pm. But, to me, it was a worthwhile trip, for I got some knowledge on the history and Buddhism of Bago and was relaxed by the enchanting beauty on the way.
FEW structures in Myanmar capture the imagination quite like the Gokteik Viaduct. Rising majestically above the rugged terrain of northern Shan State, this engineering marvel has stood for more than 125 years as both a vital railway link and a symbol of human ingenuity.Recently, thanks to timely repair and restoration efforts, the bridge has been returned to service, reminding us once again of its enduring importance as a national treasure and a beloved landmark.A Bridge of History and HeritageMyanmar is home to countless historical sites and cultural treasures, each carrying the stories of generations past. Among these, the Gokteik Viaduct holds a special place. Constructed in the late 19th century, it was once the second-highest bridge in the world and remains the highest in Myanmar. More impressively, it is recognized internationally as the world’s highest railway viaduct – a feat that continues to inspire awe among engineers, historians, and travellers alike.Stretching 2,260 feet in length and perched at an elevation of about 1,100 feet above sea level, the bridge connects Nawnghkio with Hsipaw along the Mandalay-Lashio railway line. Its sheer scale and daring design reflect the ambition of its builders, who sought not only to overcome the challenges of geography but also to create a lasting monument to progress. For more than a century, the bridge has carried trains across deep valleys and lush landscapes, offering passengers breathtaking views of Myanmar’s natural beauty.Engineering Excellence and Natural SplendourThe Gokteik Viaduct is more than a piece of infrastructure – it is a masterpiece of engineering. Its steel trestles and towering piers were designed to withstand both the weight of heavy trains and the test of time. The bridge’s construction techniques, remarkable for their era, continue to impress modern engineers who study its resilience and design.Yet the bridge’s appeal is not limited to its technical achievements. Nestled amid rolling hills, dense forests, and dramatic cliffs, it offers travellers a unique blend of human innovation and natural wonder. Crossing the bridge is not merely a journey from one town toanother; it is an experience that immerses visitors in the grandeur of Myanmar’s landscape. For residents, the bridge is a source of pride, while for international tourists, it is a destination that combines adventure with cultural discovery.A Sudden ChallengeDespite its strength and longevity, the Gokteik Viaduct faced a serious setback in August of this year. On 24 August, two of its main steel beams, located between the Lashio side’s trestle span and pier number 16, were damaged. The incident posed a grave threat tothe bridge’s usability and safety, raising concerns about the future of this heritage landmark.For a structure of such historical and cultural significance, the damage was more than a technical issue; it was a reminder of the fragility of heritage sites and the importance of preserving them.Myanmar’s citizens have long recognized the need to protect their historical treasures, and the Gokteik Viaduct is no exception. Its survival and continued use depend on collective efforts to safeguard it for future generations.Swift Restoration EffortsIn response to the damage, officials and staff from Myanma Railways acted quickly. Steel beams produced by the Myanma Railways’ Bridge Workshop in Yangon were transported to the site, and within just 76 days, the damaged section was repaired and restored. This achievement is remarkable not only for its speed but also for its precision.Restoring a bridge of such scale and complexity requires immense skill, coordination, and dedication.On 12 November, the repaired bridge was tested when a train weighing 209 tonnes successfully crossed it. The test confirmed the safety and stability of the restoration, allowing railway services to resume. For residents and travellers alike, the reopening of the bridge was a moment of relief and celebration. It demonstrated the resilience of both the structure and the people committed to preserving it.Tourism and Cultural SignificanceAlthough the repaired section has not yet been fully restored to its original historic architectural design, the bridge has once again become a hub of activity.Scenic-view RBE trains, which previously operated between Aungpinlal Station and Gokteik Station, have resumed service. These trains offer passengers the chance to enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding landscape, making the journey across the bridge as memorable as the destination itself.For tourists, the Gokteik Viaduct remains one of Myanmar’s most iconic attractions. Its combination of history, engineering, and natural beauty makes it a must-see for anyone exploring the country. Visitors can walk along nearby paths, take photographs of the sweeping vistas, and marvel at the bridge’s towering steel structure. The experience is both exhilarating and peaceful, offering a rare opportunity to connect with Myanmar’s heritage while enjoying its scenic environment.A Symbol of Resilience and ProgressThe successful restoration of the Gokteik Viaduct within 76 days is more than a technical accomplishment; it is a symbol of resilience. It reflects the determination to protect and preserve Myanmar’s heritage, ensuring that future generations can continue to enjoy and learn from it.For local communities, the bridge is not only a landmark but also a vital part of daily life, supporting transportation, commerce, and tourism. Its restoration contributes directly to socioeconomic development in the region, strengthening connections between towns and fostering growth opportunities.Moreover, the bridge’s story serves as a reminder of the importance of heritage preservation. Historical structures like the Gokteik Viaduct are irreplaceable; once lost, they cannot be recreated in their original form. Protecting them requires vigilance, care, and collective responsibility. The restoration of the bridge demonstrates what can be achieved when communities and institutions work together towards a common goal.Looking AheadWhile the bridge has been repaired and reopened, further work remains to fully restore its historic architectural design. This ongoing effort will ensure that the bridge not only functions as a railway link but also retains its original character as a heritage landmark. As restoration continues, the bridge will stand as a living testament to Myanmar’s history, culture, and engineering achievements.For travellers, the Gokteik Viaduct offers more than a crossing; it offers a journey into the past, anglimpse of human ingenuity, and an encounter with natural beauty.For locals, it is a source of pride and a foundation for progress. And for the nation as a whole, it is a reminder of the enduring value of heritage and the importance of preserving it.The Gokteik Viaduct is not merely steel and stone; it is a story of endurance, innovation, and cultural pride. Its restoration within 76 days stands as a remarkable achievement, ensuring that this iconic landmark continues to serve both practical needs and symbolic purposes. As trains once again cross its towering spans, passengers are reminded of the bridge’s timeless legacy – a legacy that belongs not only to Myanmar but to the world.By preserving and celebrating the Gokteik Viaduct, Myanmar honours its past while building its future. The bridge remains a beacon of heritage, a marvel of engineering, and a destination of beauty – an enduring reminder that history, when cared for, can continue to inspire for generations to come.(“Honouring the responsible officials and the brave heroes from the Railway Department who restored a Myanmar heritage site within a short period of time.”)GNLM
It was a balmy morning. The bright rays of the sun, through the thick foliage of trees, were beaming down on the cars we would board. I stood near the Mogok Refectory in the precincts of State Pariyatti Sasana University, looking at the spire of the glittering Kaba Aye Pagoda that stood majestically. I saw the leaves of the Bodhi tree and toddy palms on the platform swaying due to the wind. Soon, we were ready to leave the Mogok Refectory.When our minibus set out, it was around 8 am. Our group was comprised of 12 people: 8 monks from the State Pariyatti University (Yangon) and 4 lay persons, including myself and my elder brother. Our destination was Thongwa, a small town near Yangon, and on our arrival there, we would attend the 80th birthday celebration of Rector Sayadaw Dr Bhaddanta Kumara. Moreover, we would honour the Sayadaw who had recently received the esteemed religious title ‘’Abhidhaja Maharatthaguru “conferred upon him by the State.Our car departed from Kaba Aye Pagoda Road towards Gandama Road. Soon, we reached the junction at which Okkalapa Golf Resort is situated. After passing through Inno City Buildings, our car ran quickly along Waizayanta Road without any halt until we reached the newly constructed Thanlyin Bridge. At 8:45 am, we crossed the toll gate of the bridge. I gazed at the turbulent Yangon River flowing below. I saw some seagulls floating with the current, a fleet of cargo ships at anchor in the middle of the river and one or two motorboats moving fast. I looked towards a hill where the Lwan Ceti is situated on the other bank. Instead of the Ceti, I saw just a small hill clad in the green rainforests and some buildings in the neighbourhood. The Ceti was hidden amongst the groves of leafy trees.Having passed through Aung Chantha Junction, we turned right and proceeded along Kyaikkhauk Pagoda Road. We saw the colonial buildings, ancient buildings, etc. It suggests that it was an ancient town. Legend has it that Thanlyin was so named after Maung Thanlyin, who founded it, while it derived from ‘’Mya Thanlyin”, a princess who ruled over it. But their times could not be traced back exactly. It was a garrison town of the Portuguese during the Nyaung Yan period. It developed a district-level town stationed by an assistant commissioner during the colonial period. Soon, we got to Thanlyin Myoma Market. The marketplace was in commotion. It was buzzy with many buyers, sellers, etc. I saw some motor-trishaw drivers under a big, branchy tree. Shops and mini-stores were tucked in the buildings on both sides of Myo Ma Market. At 9 am, we reached the foot of Uttaringa Hill, at the top of which, the historic Kyaikkhauk Pagoda stood majestically. Our car turned left onto a road leading east. Soon, we saw Yangon Eastern University on a wide estate sheltered by the green leafy trees. It is learnt that it was built in 1999. It offered young people in the neighbourhood access to higher education. At 9:04, we arrived in front of the eastern archway gate. Nevertheless, we proceeded nonstop. Soon, we were outside the town and continued along the No 6 Road, which is the main road towards Thongwa.The traffic became lighter. Some cars overtook ours in a tearing rush. The further we moved, the more countrified the scenes became. We often saw wide fields, small hamlets, and dense forests. Some monasteries, sprawling plantations and vast pea fields were found on the road-sides until we arrived at Thaik Tu Kan Model Village. We proceeded along the No 6 Road. There were petrol stations, Kokku trees and a home for the aged on the roadside. Rice granaries and pea-storage warehouses stood prominently, reflecting the area’s agricultural livelihood.We then passed the Mahasi Meditation Centre, a testament to the villagers’ deep religious devotion. Nearby, a middle school stood as a symbol of education in the community. Soon, we entered downtown Thongwa, a historic town established during King Thayawady’s reign. Its name derives from its location at the confluence of the Mawwam Creek, the Thenegi Creek and the Takaw Creek. During the colonial period, Thongwa was a district-level town. It was administered by the assistant commissioner. People were generous and pious. Thus, they made many donations. Religious buildings, monasteries and pagodas, etc., were, therefore, found in abundance. It was a thriving town, bolstered by fisheries and agriculture.Some colonial-era wooden buildings are still extant. As soon as we crossed a bridge that spanned a small creek, we arrived at the bustling municipal market in the downtown. Turning left, we finally reached our destination, Sayadaw U Kumara’s monastery ‘’Thel Inngu Yeiktha Sasana Aung Beikman’’ at 9:36 am.When we arrived there, we took photographs and rested in the Sayadaw’s room. Some of his lay devotees treated us to tea-leaf salad and snacks. Soon, they led us to a refectory and served lunch. The courses of meals were many and delicious. Guests were house-full. While lunching, some devotional songs were heard, coming from a wide hall. After lunch, while passing through this hall, I noticed heaps of four requisites in it. It is known that by drawing lots, the monks would be offered these requisites soon. I saw some guests watching the vocalists on the stage singing classical songs, devotional songs, etc., in honour of Sayadaw’s obtaining the recent title and 80th birthday.When we arrived again at the Sayadaw’s room, we met him readily. We paid respect to him. We had a chat with him. He presented me and other teachers from State Pariyatti University, some of his authored books, and during our conversation, some local devotees arrived to present offerings. As far as I know, Sayadaw is currently serving as Rector of the State Pariyatti Sasana University (Yangon) and as Presiding Monk of the Maha Sima Pariyatti Monastery and the Everest Dhamma Yeik Nyein Monastery. On January 1, 2025, the government honoured him with the religious title ‘Abhidhaja Maharatthaguru’. He, as a distinguished scholar, earned his PhD in Buddhist Studies from Maha Chulalongkorn Rajavidyalaya University in 2023. His other titles included Aggamahapandita, Mahaganthavacaka Pandita, Aggamaha Saddhammajotikadhaja, and Honorary Dhamma Paragu (Litt), along with the Thiri Pyanchi Performance Award. He was also a prolific writer and had authored numerous works on Buddhist scriptures.On our way back, we took a different route, passing the Kularwe Bridge. We enjoyed the new scenes again. We saw gardens, resorts, and sprawling fields stretching on either side of the road. Due to the beautiful scenery, we felt refreshed and peaceful. We obtained new regional knowledge, for I had never been to Thongwa before. Moreover, we obtained merits because we had to worship Sayadaw and monks. Thus, it was a rewarding and profitable trip for us.Source: GNLM
Contined from yesterdayHiking and a manmade beach at Titop BeachAfter finishing the Sung Sot cave tour, the Stella Luxury Cruise continues on the second trip to Titop Island. Titop Island is famous for its hiking trail and manmade sandy beach. The path to the top of the mountain is narrow and steep, and it takes about 20 minutes to reach the summit.From the top of Titop Mountain, you can enjoy wide panoramic views of Ha Long Bay. Therefore, many travellers prioritize the mountain climbing trip. Upon reaching the summit, visitors can see the most beautiful expansive views of Ha Long Bay, along with breathtaking scenes of large limestone rocks emerging from the water’s surface and the surrounding islands. These scenic views make it one of the best places for photography enthusiasts.At Titop Beach, the sea water is cool and clear with a deep greenish-blue colour, and the soft white sand allows travellers to relax and unwind. Many swimmers and snorkelers can be seen, as well as hikers on the hills nearby. The entire island is bustling with walkers and photographers. Since it is a manmade beach, natural dunes are not present, so the waves and the white foam running over the dunes you might expect at a natural shoreline are absent here.Although the sea breeze and the green coconut trees, which are the distinctive features of the sandy beach, are not seen together, green coconuts are being sold at a small shop in one place. Since it is a manmade beach, it cannot compete with nature, but it cannot be denied that it is a beautiful island in the sea.Ha Long Bay, one of the world’s seven most beautiful baysFrom Titop Island, the Stella Luxury Cruise is heading back to the shore to go on its third trip to the main destination, Ha Long Bay. When Stella arrives at the shore, passengers must transfer to speedboats to go to Ha Long Bay. As the small speedboat carrying about 15 passengers, including the guide and the speedboat driver, departs from the shore, it begins to rain again.It rained off and on all day, so my mood got a little disturbed. For those who prepared sunglasses and big hats to go to the beach, the rain became the villain.Ha Long Bay is located in Ha Long City, Quang Ninh Province, Vietnam. Recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, Ha Long Bay is famous for its serene and beautiful limestone karst formations. It covers an area of 1,553 square kilometres and is made up of about 2,000 islands and islets, most of which are limestone mountains formed around 500 million years ago.Ha Long Bay, which attracts over one million international tourists annually, is an important destination in Vietnam’s tourism sector. With nearly 2,000 limestone islands set against a blue sky backdrop, Ha Long Bay, known for its jade-green waters, was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994 and has become one of the most beautiful places in the world.The speedboat we are on is heading towards the sea channel through the rain and water. Above the sea, where the sky is cloudy with shades of green and blue, there are many limestone mountains and small islands visible, which are a unique attraction of the Ha Long Bay sea channel. Most of the rocky areas are covered with monsoon forests, making the entire environment lush, green, and truly beautiful.Inside the sea, large cargo ships anchored near the reefs can be seen alongside fishing boats. The Ha Long Bay, bordered by beautiful limestone mountains, looks like a magnificent and unique painting…. We need to study it in the Vietnam water border trade area. The speedboat carrying foreign tourists, navigating swiftly over the water between the rocks to the Chinese border, shows a little boy who seems somewhat tired.Heading to the most beautiful rocky cliffs in Ha Long BayAfter returning from the stormy sea, drenched by rain and wind, we will head to the final destination, the rocky cliffs of the ocean, using canoes and large wooden boats to closely explore the area.Even in the drizzle, travellers ventured out — some heading towards the open sea on speedboats, others making their way to the massive rock formations in large wooden boats or canoes. The pier along the beach became a lively scene, teeming with people of all kinds and boats of all colours, reminiscent of bees swarming around flowers. The sea, muddy brown, was rough and choppy toward the open ocean, but appeared calm and still like a lake near the rock formations — a stark contrast. As the large boats steered toward the giant rocks, the joy and excitement of the diverse group of travellers became contagious and deeply felt.A large boat carrying Chinese tourists in matching outfits was seen rowing towards the rocky outcrops, singing songs in unison. At one point, a boat with young Indian children singing songs also appeared. Out in the water, two people were seen paddling small canoes, swaying gently. Rather than a sea, the place looked more like a large lake surrounded by rocky cliffs.Not only Chinese and Indians from Asia but also travellers from countries like France and the UK can be seen gathering together on separate boats. When the large boats travelling from the beach to the rocky islets and those returning from the rocks pass close to each other, they greet one another with loud shouts and waves. Witnessing these scenes reminds me of the way water-splashing trucks used to cheer and shout greetings to one another during Thingyan in Yangon. If one is prone to nostalgia, then surely the shadows of the past are full of things to long for.In one spot beneath the water’s surface, you can see a large, white, jelly-like jellyfish floating close to the boat. Between the rain-soaked cliffs, the sea is calm, with a deep, cool green hue. Among the rocks and stones, lush green trees growing in the crevices catch the eye. Ha Long Bay, one of the most beautiful bays in the world, was included in the New Seven Natural Wonders of the World list in 2012. Ha Long Bay is home to 14 species of flowers and over 60 species of wild birds and animals.The way back homeWhen returning from the stone caves, Stella will go out to host Vietnam’s famous coffee, while enjoying the beauty of the sunset over Halong Bay. However, the rain, which had been falling and stopping since morning, did not allow a view of the beautiful sunset over Ha Long Bay.We had to settle for watching the rainy evening beauty of Ha Long Bay from Stella, through the gaps between the clouds. Although Stella’s upper deck was designed to offer the best view of the bay at sunset, the rain followed its unrelenting script, and we ended up spending the whole day in the dining hall on the lower deck.The return journey from the beach was accompanied by rain. By exactly 6 am, the vehicles were ready to depart for Hanoi. On this gloomy day, amid the falling raindrops, the travellers from Ha Long Bay seemed a bit melancholic, as if they missed the sea. As usual, the cars made a short stop at a large shopping centre that was connected to a food court along the road.Driving along the highway, passing through lush green fields and major expressways, we arrived back in the Old Quarter of Hanoi as dusk fell. From the car, we caught a quick glimpse of the beautiful Hoan Kiem Lake, glowing with multicoloured lights. Around the lake, the area was bustling like a night market. In the middle of the lake sits a small island known as Jade Island, home to the famous Ngoc Son Temple. A bright red wooden bridge, known as The Huc Bridge, connects the temple to the lakeshore. Both the lake and the temple are among Hanoi’s iconic landmarks. Although Ngoc Son Temple and the vivid red Huc Bridge are not far from the hotel, we didn’t have time to visit them.Some shops in the area of Chinatown are quite similar to the Chinatown in Yangon, closing around 9 pm, but the small roadside stalls remain open until about 10 pm or 11 pm. After returning from the beach and passing through southern Chinatown, there aren’t as many motorbikes as in the morning, but a few still zip by now and then. With fewer motorbikes, more cars can be seen on the roads. On the streets, international tourists are still walking around here and there.In the Chinatown area, signs written in English are quite rare. Notably, only large coffee shops, hotels, and travel agencies display signs in English. Along one street, you can find a travel agency office about every block. The number of international tourists coming to Vietnam is also increasing year by year.Last year, the number of international tourists who visited was 14.8 million, with more than 2 million tourists coming from Europe and America. I believe that a key factor in the success of the tourism industry cannot be achieved without leveraging the high proficiency of Vietnamese youth in the English language.Acknowledgement: To be able to write this piece, I am very grateful to my elder brother Ko Kyaw Kyaw Than and his wife Ma Mee Mee from the UK, who supported and arranged the entire trip from start to finish; also to my elder sister Ma Win Win Than, my younger sister Ma Yi Yi Than, and my wife Ma Nwe Nwe Than, who took care of and assisted throughout the journey; and especially to Ma Mee Mee, who took and supported many documentary photographs, I express my special thanks.GNLM
